By Tracy Miller, Tracy’s Fine Jewelry
Jewelry and gemstones go back in time further than we can remember. The earliest piece of jewelry ever found goes back about 25,000 years ago. A necklace made of fish bones was found in a cave in Monaco. Forty-one shell beads found in sand layers in a Blombas cave date back to 75,000 years ago and suggest that something dramatic happened, humans became interested in art, ornaments and beauty even back before a time when we would have presumed primitive humans thought only of survival.
Researchers are still trying to uncover the mystery behind the owners of the bone necklace and the Blombas cave beads. The biggest question is, did the necklace belong to a chief or a medicine doctor or someone with a title or was it simply a gift. This is something we will probably never know but many have speculated it was worn by someone important.
Going back in history the first adornments found were teeth, bones, claws and horns. Hunters believed that wearing these ‘Trophies’ would bring them luck in their next hunt. As with any hunter back then they wanted to show courage and gain respect from their village.
Jewelry was also worn in some societies to ward off evil spirits or worn as talismans to protect against illness or bad luck. Jewelry later came to denote human commitment. Wedding rings that symbolize the commitment two people have for one another. Slaves wore bracelets to denote their owners. Some tribes in Africa wear hug discs in their lips to make them look more fearsome. The Ndebele people in Africa wear neck rings as part of their traditional dress and as a sign of wealth and status.
Throughout the world jewelry has evolved over time. From the Egyptians Ankh that symbolizes life, to the Greeks and their belief in Gods and symbols. Each had their own beliefs and methods for making jewelry. Egyptians made multi color necklace and bracelets out of beads and were also famous for Faience, a glass like glaze on clay with glass inlays. The Greeks were known for their use of gold and they perfected a method for making tiny gold beads called granulation. The romans loved the cameos and cherished them for their beauty.
Diamonds didn’t become popular until people learned how to cut them to show their beauty. This wasn’t until the 1300’s when diamonds were cut and faceted by hand. The first electric bruting machine was invented in 1891, and the first motorized diamond saw was initially a blade coated with diamond dust and oil. These had a huge impact on the accuracy of diamond cuts and enabled more creative cuts. The asscher cut and baguette cut were both introduced during this time.
The greatest movement in jewelry came from the Crusades, where Constantinople merged the greatness and richness of Greece, Egypt, parts of Russia and North America. The use of rich colors and oriental symbolisms lasted well into the middle ages. The art of Cloisonne’ enameling flourished during this period. The Crusades opened up trade between the East and West. This exposed Europeans to new ideas and trade.
From the twelfth to fifteenth century commoners didn’t wear much jewelry. Sumptuary laws were enforced, as a means to regulate what pheasants were allowed to wear, so they didn’t copy clothes or jewelry of the nobility.
During this time rings that were worn had a purpose. Ecclesiastical rings were worn by clergy and as sacred or holy emblems. Creative rings, were meant to heal ailments and disease. Rings of romance or wedding rings were worn on the second finger of the left hand to be closest to the heart.
Henry VIII was one of the most lavish of the royals. He wore extravagant clothing and flashed more than 234 rings and 324 brooches and diamond and pearl studded necklaces. Henry’s daughter Elizabeth loved pearls so much she had over 2000 dresses adorned with pearls and gemstones.
During King Louis XIV reign he proclaimed he would have the most magnificent court throughout the land. From 1642-1715 there were more large diamonds imported from India than any other time in history. The Hope diamond was purchased by Jean-Baptiste Tavernier during this time. It was meant to be given by Tavernier’s grandson to his wife Marie Antoinette but the diamond was stolen.
Throughout history jewelry has been adorned in so many ways. From 75,000 years ago to present times jewelry has been worn to show our loyalty, independence, to stand up for a cause or to symbolize a belief. Jewelry can capture a moment with engraving or a laser engraved picture. We wear jewelry to express how we feel. If taken good care of jewelry can last for many lifetimes as heirlooms to be shared through decades.
